When you pull the Axle bolt, lay the bearing covers, spacers, etc, out in a straight line, so you can put them back in the proper order when through. I usually reverse just the bolt, so it enters from the left side of the bike, the better to remove the nut pin and loosen the nut during chain tension adjustments. Have a wedge of wood or fold of cardboard handy to keep the brake pads in place. Remove the valve stem and put it someplace where it won't roll off into the dirt. Working with the disc UP, break the top bead with irons, large C-clamp, boot heels, your buddy's sidestand, etc. It's important that each bead ends up all the way over into the drop section on the rim, where the spoke nipples live. Only then will you be able to start the bead up and over the rim to freedom; bead wire does not stretch. When you get the first bead off, remove the nuts holding the valve stem in place. and poke the stem into the rim hole. You can now fish the tube out, and remove the tire from the rim. Inspect the tube for creases and patches; save a questionable tube to carry as a spare. Clean the rim knurl (gripping notches) of junk and old tire bead rubber. Check the rim strip; replace if worn or torn.
Check the new tire for the rotation arrow. The only time I reverse it is for the IRC GP-110 on front (wears more evenly) Look for the white or yellow dot; that goes nearest the valve stem. It's 180 degrees from where the plies overlap, the heaviest point on the tire. (HINT): the three digit DOT code (ex: 284) tells how fresh the tire is: 284 would mean the tire was born during the 28th week of 1994.
Clean the dust/crap out of the tire, and apply some talcum powder to the inside, and to the tube. Get the first bead into the rim. Install the tube: I make and sell a nifty little aid for getting the valve stem to come up through the rim hole. Put the lock nuts on the stem, so you don't lose it down inside. Go around the rim and push the tube away into the center of the rim to avoid pinching it when you iron the remaining bead into the rim. Position the dot near the stem. With the stem core out, run air into the tube and let it escape a couple of times: spreads out the tube inside, and eliminates creases. Install the core, and slowly bring up the pressure, tightening the stem nuts as you go. Release the pressure, and apply a little soapy water around the bead, between the tire and rim, and go to listed pressure. Check that the tire has seated completely: there's a little molded-in bead on the tire that should show near the rim bead all the way around.
I've mounted tires this way for years; if I position the tire correctly relative to the rim hole, it seldom, if ever, needs balance weights. I hang the tire by the axle overnight before I go after final balance. Before you reinstall the mounted tire into the fork or swingarm, wipe the axle clean and wire brush the threads. Wipe a little grease on both; now's a good time to clean out the bearing pockets and apply a little grease to the bearings. Pull out the wedge, and carefully guide the disc between the pucks. Make sure to install the spacers and dust covers back the way they were; install the axle, tighten the nut, and insert the pin. I use hitch clips; they don't need a tool to remove/install, and are reuseable. Spin the tire by hand, sometimes saves you from the disaster of incorrect assembly. Ride the first few miles with caution, listening for unusual noises or feeling of wobbles. The first few applications of the brake will feel spongy; if it doesn't go away something is very wrong. Check that the brake pads aren't cocked sideways in the caliper.
Hope I haven't missed anything!
Stay Safe!
